In 1967, Dior boldly embraced the revolutionary concept of “ready-to-wear” designer fashion, breaking away from individual fittings and the customary three-month waiting period. Marc Bohan, the designer at the time, recognized the evolving mindset of the women in the 1960s and introduced boutiques named Miss Dior, offering off-the-peg fashion to a new generation.
The recent Dior show at Paris Fashion Week paid homage to Bohan’s modernizing instincts. The event, held in a sprawling white box in the Tuileries Gardens, celebrated Bohan’s 28-year tenure as Dior’s designer until his passing at the age of 97 last year. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the current creative director, found a connection with Bohan’s lesser-known legacy in the Dior archives, emphasizing his contribution to shaping the modern woman’s silhouette.
In contrast to the ongoing dramatization of Coco Chanel‘s wartime escapades in “The New Look,” the Dior catwalk prominently featured the name Miss Dior spray-painted across various garments, a nod to Christian Dior’s French resistance heroine sister, Catherine, for whom the Miss Dior perfume was named. Maisie Williams, portraying Catherine in the drama, graced the front row as a guest.
Behind the scenes, Chiuri explored Bohan’s quest for fabrics and silhouettes accommodating diverse body shapes. Bohan, seeking a new silhouette for the modern woman, introduced trousers and straight jackets to cater to different body types. This translated on the catwalk into a Parisian chic with a Rive Gauche, Gauloises-scented moodboard – featuring tight black polo necks, swinging gold pendant necklaces, wide-legged denim, and gently flared trousers with matching tunic tops.
With an extensive eight-day schedule, Paris Fashion Week surpasses its counterparts in Milan, New York, and London. The spotlight will be on Sean McGirr’s interpretation of Alexander McQueen‘s complex legacy at his debut show, and Chemena Kamali’s first show for Chloe will be scrutinized for signals on the brand’s commitment to sustainability. The week concludes with a landmark show by French fashion veteran Louis Vuitton, celebrating the 10th anniversary of designer Nicolas Ghesquière.
